Understanding French life is a lifelong journey of mine. I’ve been in love with all things français since that very first French class in grade 4. While everyone dreaded going, I’d cling to my desk to hear my teacher just speak. French just has to be one of the most beautiful languages out there.
On my most recent travels to Paris, I devoted myself to finding quintessential Parisian charm and immersing in true Parisian living. Our studio apartment was in the 5th arrondissement, and in the heart of the Latin Quarter. It couldn’t have been more perfect. In a village of small winding roads, our apartment was off Boulevard Saint Marcel, and our entrance just steps to sweet-smelling boulangeries on every corner. Each morning, I would open our balcony doors to take this all in and each night stumble back home into this very quaint and local neighbourhood.
Our amazing apartment in the 5th on boulevard Saint Marcel!
If you’re in Paris for a week or longer, renting an apartment is your cheapest bet. You can pack your lunches or cook for dinner. €500 can land you a decent place for a week while hotels will set you back at least €100 a night. Renting a flat also gets you off the tourist grid into local neighbourhoods like this one!
The kitchen where we cooked our yummiest meals and the balcony where we ate them!
The best part of the 5th is being able to roll out of bed onto Rue Mouffetard. At the turn of the corner, a few steps further from our studio was my favourite little cobblestone street. I can’t think of a more quintessential French neighbourhood to spend my mornings. The pedestrian rue is known for its artisanal food shops. Shops selling French cheeses, local wines, the freshest (and most natural) baguettes, and traditional cafés line the rue ready for people-watching. The tiny narrow road fills very early with the most colourful fruit and vegetable market. Here, vendors are always quick to smile and eager to know you by name. The fruit sellers in their stands or the bakers in their boulangeries, they are the people that make this neighbourhood feel like home – warm and cozy even if you don’t live here.
Parisians walking along Mouffetard in the morning
The colourful market at the bottom of the rue dates back to the 1200's and inspired the works of Julia Child. The vendor opens it every morning bright and early!
“Le Mouffe” is a trail of a medieval Roman past. Colonial references still remain on many of the old storefronts including up the street at no. 12, Au Nègre Joyeux. The painting of “The Happy Negro” depicting a happy smiling black servant and his white master always stirs soft whispers and debate by passersby. It’s now on Paris’s registry of sites deemed historical and unable to remove or modify. The site was one of the first chocolate factories in Paris. Ironically, today the popular supermarché below is run by minorities.
Au Negre Joyeux at no. 12, rue Mouffetard
Nothing says francais like the local cheese shop. I can still sense the fresh aroma from the fromagerie, Veron. Not to mention the massive quiche I found further along.
Veron at no. 105, rue Mouffetard
Not your bite size quiche
We rolled out of bed for melt-in-your mouth pain au chocolat and croissant au beurre at Maison Morange, no 123 rue Mouffetard
Try the deliciously famous crêpes at Chez Nico and Aup ’Tit Grec. They make some of the best in the city! Best part they’re the cheapest in the city at €3-4.
Nutella, Banana, Grand Marnier Crêpe...mmm!
Savory crêpes at no. 62 and 44, rue Mouffetard
Other places to check out on Rue Mouffetard:
The Italian traiteur, Androuet, at the bottom of the rue for handmade pasta.
Famous tarts at Le Maison des Tartes
Organic bread at Pain au Naturel
Le Vieux Chêne, one of Paris’s oldest bars dating back to the 18th century and a popular meeting point for revolutions in 1848.
Church of St-Médard
Best way to get here: Métro Censier-Daubenton
Do you have a favourite local neighbourhood?
A Canadian journalist turned blogger, Cristina is a 20-something food addict and traveller who traded in the conventional 9-5 to live life by her own terms. Her passion for Europe has taken her to more than 25 countries and 45 different cities. Her next chapter in travel is volunteering her way around the world. When she’s not eating, travelling or writing, she works as a Social Media and PR freelancer in Toronto.
Definitely recommend the crepes.
Best part they make for good, super cheap meals!